Seikluslik algus
24. märts 2016, Andrus Pavelson
Uus Meremaaga seotud seiklused saavad alguse juba Austraalias Brisbane lennujaamas. Lennule registreerimisel teatab ametnik, et kuna meil Euroopasse tagasisõidu pileteid pole, ei saa ta meid Christchurchi lennule checkida. Õnneks olime kohal tubli kaks tundi enne väljalendu ja jõudsime vajalikud piletid täpselt õigeks hetkeks ära osta. Ostmise tegi keeruliseks Eesti pankade põhjendatud ettevaatlikkus krediitkaardiga sooritatavate internetiostude osas. Lõpp hea, kõik hea ja lennule jõudsime õigeaegselt. Pool tundi enne lennuki maandumist käivad stjuardessid ridade vahel ja kontrollivad oksekottide olemasolu. Peagi võtab sõna kapten ja hoiatab ees ootava karmi maandumise eest. Ilmaolud olevat keerulised. Tugevad külgtuuled tõesti raputavad lennukit nagu tahaks tiibu ära rebida. Meeskond on tasemel ja toob Boeingu esimesel katsel vahejuhtumiteta maandumisrajale. Lennusaatjate vaev oli asjatu ja valgeid paberkotte kellelgi vaja ei lähe.
Kuna meie oma kallis Hilux seilab parajasti konteineris Euroopa poole, siis Uus Meremaal seikleme renditud Toyota minibussi ehitatud kämpervaniga, mille lennujaama lähedalt kätte saame.
Viimased kuus aastat on Christchurchi tundmatuseni muutnud. 2010 ja 2011 tabasid Uus Meremaa Lõunasaare suurimat linna tugevad maavärinad, mis suure osa hoonetest varemateks muutsid ja nõudsid 185 inimelu. Enamik maavärinas kannatada saanud maju on lammutatud, osasid demonteeritakse praegu, osa ootab järge.
Lammutustöödega samaaegselt käib teistel kruntidel kibe uute rajatiste püstitamine. Mõned kauplused ja teenindusasutused töötavad siiani ajutistel, merekonteineritesse rajatud pindadel. Katastroofi silmapaistvaimaks mälestusmärgiks on linna imposantne katedraalihoone, mis kaotas õnnetuse käigus kellatorni ning osa katusest. Räsitud olekus kirik peaväljakul ootab oma restaureerimisjärge tänaseni.
Maavärinatele pühendatud teabekeskuses vaatame ekspositsiooni ja kuulame ära rea videointervjuusid, kus 2011. aasta loodusõnnetuse üle elanud inimesed jutustavad omi lugusid. Mõtlemapanev, kuidas me maailm mõne hetkega sõna otseses mõttes kokku võib kukkuda.
Teekond Christchurchist Dunedini suunas piki Lõunasaare idarannikut on kaunis, kuid mitte suud ammuli ajav. Pilt on võrreldav Iirimaa rannikuga, kuid kuivema kliima tõttu asendab ristikheina-saare rohelust siin peamiselt kollakas varjund.
Külastame Banksi poolsaart, ööbime Okains Bay lihtsakoelises, ent kaunis mereäärses kämpingus, kus tormituul on suure kuuse vaid päeva eest autosuvilale kukutanud. Päris kole vaatepilt, kuid õnneks inimohvrid puuduvad. Akaroa linna muuseumis tutvume lähemalt Banksi poolsaare ajalooga.
Oamarus vaatame üle 19. sajandi lõpu, ehk linna hiilgeaegade, võimsad ehitised ja naudime kuurorti pühapäevast jõudeoleku atmosfääri. Linnalähedasel plaazhil peesitavad puhkajate asemel merilõvid ja õhtuti peaks kohtama haruldasi kollasilmseid pingviine (Yellow Eyed Penguins). Loivalised on kohal, kuid lennuvõimetud linnud jäävad siin nägemata.
Tee Dunedinisse viib mööda Mouraki Bouldersist- mere kaldal asuvatest ca 2m läbimõõduga looduslikest kivikeradest, mille täpne tekkelugu on teadmata.
Dunedinist idas asub Otago poolsaare looduskaitseala, kus lisaks merelõvidele, hüljestele ja pingviinidele pesitsevad majesteetlikud albatrossid. Jälgime vaateplatvormilt hiiglaslike, paarimeetrise tiivaulatusega merelindude lendu.
Vahva kämpimiskogemuse osaliseks saame Dunedini lähistel, Ocean View Reserv kaitseala pisikesel parkimisplatsil, kus ööbimine ametlikult lubatud. Õhtu vältel koguneb siia tasuta teenuse soovijaid palju enam, kui parklas kohti. Nii seistakse ka parkimiskohtade vahelistel sõiduteedel ja autod aetakse tihedalt külg külje kõrvale. Inimesed, peamiselt tudengiealised noored, mõnedel kaasas ka väikesed lapsed, käituvad vaikselt ja vaoshoitult ning paigas valitseb meeldiv ühikaatmosfäär.
Dunedinisse viib meid lisaks uudishimule soov avaldada tänu perekonnale, kes poeg Priidu eest vahetusõpilaseks olemise aastal hoolt kandis ja ulualust pakkus. Paaril on viis täiskasvanud last ja aastate jooksul on nad peavarju pakkunud kahekümne seitsmele!!! vahetusõpilasele, kellest tervelt kolm pärit Eestist. Kohtumine Pami ja Stuga on südamlik ja meeleolukas.
Vaatame üle Kings High Schooli, kus Priit aastapäevad tarkust taga nõudis. Meeldiv kaasaegne õpikeskkond.
Dunedini peamine turismimagnet on väidetavalt maailma kõige järsema kaldega Baldwini tänav. Ronime hingeldades 350 meetri pikkuse tänava kõrgeimasse punkti ja hiljem ei saa üle kiusatusest katsetada, kas rendiauto ka selle ca 19 kraadise kalde võtmisega hakkama saab. Saab küll!
Lõuna suunas liikudes muutuvad rannakünkad madalamaks ja rohelisemaks. Maastiku hooldamise eest kannavad hoolt hiiglaslikud lamba- ja veisekarjad, mis kohalikele inimestele lisaks kalapüügile ja turistide teenindamisele elatist annavad.
Rannikukaljudel elutseb kõikjal rikkalikult loivalisi ja merelinde.
Caitlini maakonnas Curio Bay rannal jälgime delfiinidega koos meremõnusid nautivaid lainelaudureid. Siin näeme ära ka kaldal ukerdava kollasilmse pingviini.
Uus-Meremaa „mandriosa“ lõunapoolseim tipp asub Slope Pointis, kust umbes võrdselt 5000 kilomeetrit nii lõunanaba kui ekvaatorini. Elu parimat fish and chipsi naudime väikeses rannaküla kõrtsis, kus juttu õlut nautivate külameestega jätkub kauemaks.
Meie esmamuljed kaugest saareriigist on vastakad. Turiste on siin kõikjal üllatavalt palju ja seega ka nädala sees kämpingud rahvarohked. Autoga reisimine siin on imelihtne. Vahemaad lühikesed ja taristu autoturisti jaoks suurepärane. Kämpingud on puhtad ja Austraaliaga võrreldes odavamad. Ööbida võib vaid ametlikult ette nähtud kohtades ja politsei pidavat „metsikuid“ kämpijaid armutult jahtima ning karmilt trahvima. Loodus, mis on Lõunasaare idarannikul küll puhas ja kaunis mingit erilist vaufiilingut ei tekita. Samas teame, et ees ootavad mäed, suured kosed ja liustikud, nii et looodame oma kaifi ikka kätte saada.
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